THE ABBOT AND COOK
THE ABBOT AND COOK
Manuel Joaquim Rebelo (1834-1930) could have gone down in history simply as another Vicar of the parish of Priscos. However, his singular devotion to gastronomy granted him a special place in the context of national cuisine. At the table of the Abbot of Priscos, as he was called, sat kings, ministers and bishops. The pudding he cooked is, to this day, the greatest ambassador of Priscos.
Manuel Joaquim Rebelo (1834-1930) could have gone down in history simply as another Vicar of the parish of Priscos. However, his singular devotion to gastronomy granted him a special place in the context of national cuisine. At the table of the Abbot of Priscos, as he was called, sat kings, ministers and bishops. The pudding he cooked is, to this day, the greatest ambassador of Priscos.
Born on 29 March 1834 in the parish of Turiz, which, at the time, was part of the extinct municipality of Larim, now the municipality of Vila Verde, he was the fourth son of a wealthy family of farmers.
Manuel Joaquim Machado Rebelo soon manifested his vocation for priesthood, which would only be reinforced by the decision of his older brother by four years, Luís Manuel, to join the seminary, as Manuel Joaquim did in 1854.
Born on 29 March 1834 in the parish of Turiz, which, at the time, was part of the extinct municipality of Larim, now the municipality of Vila Verde, he was the fourth son of a wealthy family of farmers.
Manuel Joaquim Machado Rebelo soon manifested his vocation for priesthood, which would only be reinforced by the decision of his older brother by four years, Luís Manuel, to join the seminary, as Manuel Joaquim did in 1854.
Ordained as a priest in 1861 by the Archbishop D. José Joaquim de Azevedo e Moura, Father Manuel Joaquim started his priestly ministry in 1864, after having briefly served in Cunha, in the parish of Bastuço, Barcelos, where he stayed for nine years. He would then assume the parish of Ruílhe in 1873, staying until October 1882, when he would be appointed as Permanent Abbot of Santiago de Priscos, after being approved in the tender that, at the time, preceded the nomination to a parish of higher status. Father Manuel Joaquim remained there for remarkable 47 years, up until 1929, shortly before his death, which occurred on 24 September 1930. During his later years, he was accompanied by his niece, Maria Amélia, who devoted herself to her uncle, living with him on the parish grounds since she was 14 years old.
A man of prayer and devotion, he was led to worship by the Sacred Heart of Jesus, which Jesuits spread through the Apostleship of Prayer. As Abbot of Ruílhe, in addition to founding the devotion and the Apostleship of Prayer, he gathered alms to erect a chapel of said evocation. Some decades later, that space of worship would make way for the new parish church. Father Manuel Joaquim also dedicated himself to this worship in Priscos, establishing an association of the Apostleship of Prayer in the parish and introducing a retable with the image of the Sacred Heart of Jesus inside the temple (Lage, 1956). A model in performing his priestly ministry and with renowned human virtues, Father Manuel Joaquim ended up engraving his name in history for another reason. In addition to church, the kitchen was his privileged mission space, where he spent countless hours repeating and improving his recipes. Always seeking to improve and update his knowledge on techniques and theories of culinary arts in vogue in Europe through publications, as well as corresponding with other famous gastronomes, the Abbot of Priscos treated culinary as an art, and that is the reason why he is currently considered one of the biggest names of Portuguese cuisine.
While his pudding, which skilfully blends eggs, water, sugar, lemon zest, cinnamon and Port wine, without forgetting the bacon, became one of the essential icons of national confectionery, the Abbot’s recipe book has many other delicacies, not only sweet recipes, but also consommés with exquisite names, pastries, game, lamprey and codfish dishes, as well as several desserts. His menus were vast and his culinary skills immeasurable. He created countless recipes for the repasts he organised, some of which remain unknown.
Renowned for his culinary skills, the Abbot of Priscos was continuously invited to prepare exquisite repasts for celebrations and banquets, in which the high aristocracy, politicians and members of the clergy participated.
Bishops, counts, ministers, scholars and even the King himself were served by the Abbot.
But, make no mistake, the Abbot did not only share his priestly ministry with the kitchen. Manifesting a significant sensitivity for arts, which made him consider studying Fine Arts in Paris before choosing priesthood, Father Manuel Joaquim dedicated himself to other talents as well. The popular theatre plays that took place in a wooden shack, in the churchyard of the chapel of Nossa Senhora do Carmo, in Cunha, became very famous.
In addition to his inclination towards handicrafts, like painting, floral arrangements and embroidery, he was also devoted to photography and theatre, even initiating the parishioners in performing arts.
The most renowned Abbot of Priscos passed away around 8.00 pm, on 24 September 1930, at the age of 96, in Casa do Reguengo, Vila Verde, being buried two days later in a family tomb in the Turiz cemetery.
Ordained as a priest in 1861 by the Archbishop D. José Joaquim de Azevedo e Moura, Father Manuel Joaquim started his priestly ministry in 1864, after having briefly served in Cunha, in the parish of Bastuço, Barcelos, where he stayed for nine years. He would then assume the parish of Ruílhe in 1873, staying until October 1882, when he would be appointed as Permanent Abbot of Santiago de Priscos, after being approved in the tender that, at the time, preceded the nomination to a parish of higher status. Father Manuel Joaquim remained there for remarkable 47 years, up until 1929, shortly before his death, which occurred on 24 September 1930. During his later years, he was accompanied by his niece, Maria Amélia, who devoted herself to her uncle, living with him on the parish grounds since she was 14 years old.
A man of prayer and devotion, he was led to worship by the Sacred Heart of Jesus, which Jesuits spread through the Apostleship of Prayer. As Abbot of Ruílhe, in addition to founding the devotion and the Apostleship of Prayer, he gathered alms to erect a chapel of said evocation. Some decades later, that space of worship would make way for the new parish church. Father Manuel Joaquim also dedicated himself to this worship in Priscos, establishing an association of the Apostleship of Prayer in the parish and introducing a retable with the image of the Sacred Heart of Jesus inside the temple (Lage, 1956). A model in performing his priestly ministry and with renowned human virtues, Father Manuel Joaquim ended up engraving his name in history for another reason. In addition to church, the kitchen was his privileged mission space, where he spent countless hours repeating and improving his recipes. Always seeking to improve and update his knowledge on techniques and theories of culinary arts in vogue in Europe through publications, as well as corresponding with other famous gastronomes, the Abbot of Priscos treated culinary as an art, and that is the reason why he is currently considered one of the biggest names of Portuguese cuisine.
While his pudding, which skilfully blends eggs, water, sugar, lemon zest, cinnamon and Port wine, without forgetting the bacon, became one of the essential icons of national confectionery, the Abbot’s recipe book has many other delicacies, not only sweet recipes, but also consommés with exquisite names, pastries, game, lamprey and codfish dishes, as well as several desserts. His menus were vast and his culinary skills immeasurable. He created countless recipes for the repasts he organised, some of which remain unknown.
Renowned for his culinary skills, the Abbot of Priscos was continuously invited to prepare exquisite repasts for celebrations and banquets, in which the high aristocracy, politicians and members of the clergy participated.
Bishops, counts, ministers, scholars and even the King himself were served by the Abbot.
But, make no mistake, the Abbot did not only share his priestly ministry with the kitchen. Manifesting a significant sensitivity for arts, which made him consider studying Fine Arts in Paris before choosing priesthood, Father Manuel Joaquim dedicated himself to other talents as well. The popular theatre plays that took place in a wooden shack, in the churchyard of the chapel of Nossa Senhora do Carmo, in Cunha, became very famous.
In addition to his inclination towards handicrafts, like painting, floral arrangements and embroidery, he was also devoted to photography and theatre, even initiating the parishioners in performing arts.
The most renowned Abbot of Priscos passed away around 8.00 pm, on 24 September 1930, at the age of 96, in Casa do Reguengo, Vila Verde, being buried two days later in a family tomb in the Turiz cemetery.
Ordained as a priest in 1861 by the Archbishop D. José Joaquim de Azevedo e Moura, Father Manuel Joaquim started his priestly ministry in 1864, after having briefly served in Cunha, in the parish of Bastuço, Barcelos, where he stayed for nine years. He would then assume the parish of Ruílhe in 1873, staying until October 1882, when he would be appointed as Permanent Abbot of Santiago de Priscos, after being approved in the tender that, at the time, preceded the nomination to a parish of higher status. Father Manuel Joaquim remained there for remarkable 47 years, up until 1929, shortly before his death, which occurred on 24 September 1930. During his later years, he was accompanied by his niece, Maria Amélia, who devoted herself to her uncle, living with him on the parish grounds since she was 14 years old.
A man of prayer and devotion, he was led to worship by the Sacred Heart of Jesus, which Jesuits spread through the Apostleship of Prayer. As Abbot of Ruílhe, in addition to founding the devotion and the Apostleship of Prayer, he gathered alms to erect a chapel of said evocation. Some decades later, that space of worship would make way for the new parish church. Father Manuel Joaquim also dedicated himself to this worship in Priscos, establishing an association of the Apostleship of Prayer in the parish and introducing a retable with the image of the Sacred Heart of Jesus inside the temple (Lage, 1956). A model in performing his priestly ministry and with renowned human virtues, Father Manuel Joaquim ended up engraving his name in history for another reason. In addition to church, the kitchen was his privileged mission space, where he spent countless hours repeating and improving his recipes. Always seeking to improve and update his knowledge on techniques and theories of culinary arts in vogue in Europe through publications, as well as corresponding with other famous gastronomes, the Abbot of Priscos treated culinary as an art, and that is the reason why he is currently considered one of the biggest names of Portuguese cuisine.
While his pudding, which skilfully blends eggs, water, sugar, lemon zest, cinnamon and Port wine, without forgetting the bacon, became one of the essential icons of national confectionery, the Abbot’s recipe book has many other delicacies, not only sweet recipes, but also consommés with exquisite names, pastries, game, lamprey and codfish dishes, as well as several desserts. His menus were vast and his culinary skills immeasurable. He created countless recipes for the repasts he organised, some of which remain unknown.
Renowned for his culinary skills, the Abbot of Priscos was continuously invited to prepare exquisite repasts for celebrations and banquets, in which the high aristocracy, politicians and members of the clergy participated.
Bishops, counts, ministers, scholars and even the King himself were served by the Abbot.
But, make no mistake, the Abbot did not only share his priestly ministry with the kitchen. Manifesting a significant sensitivity for arts, which made him consider studying Fine Arts in Paris before choosing priesthood, Father Manuel Joaquim dedicated himself to other talents as well. The popular theatre plays that took place in a wooden shack, in the churchyard of the chapel of Nossa Senhora do Carmo, in Cunha, became very famous.
In addition to his inclination towards handicrafts, like painting, floral arrangements and embroidery, he was also devoted to photography and theatre, even initiating the parishioners in performing arts.
The most renowned Abbot of Priscos passed away around 8.00 pm, on 24 September 1930, at the age of 96, in Casa do Reguengo, Vila Verde, being buried two days later in a family tomb in the Turiz cemetery.
A very frugal cook
It should be noted that the Abbot of Priscos was not an expensive chef, at all. Every service he provided was free of charge, where his sole takeaways were the pleasure of cooking, and even a sense of mission, resulting from undertaking the preparation of such meals. He put in the same dedication, whether it was the King, the Archbishop or a modest family sitting at his table. One of the episodes reported refers to the preparation of a repast for some clergymen, by request of the Archbishop D. Manuel Baptista da Cunha. Urged to write a shopping list, the prelate of Braga found the amount of potatoes scarce and said: “Think it through. A few days ago, my cook bought a much larger portion of potatoes for a dinner with fewer guests. Make sure we do not look bad”. The Abbot laughed and said: “Your Grace, with that amount of potatoes, I could feed my pig for half a year.” The refinement of his cuisine did not rest on the quantity or quality of products, but rather on the way and talent with which they were cooked.
A very frugal cook
It should be noted that the Abbot of Priscos was not an expensive chef, at all. Every service he provided was free of charge, where his sole takeaways were the pleasure of cooking, and even a sense of mission, resulting from undertaking the preparation of such meals. He put in the same dedication, whether it was the King, the Archbishop or a modest family sitting at his table. One of the episodes reported refers to the preparation of a repast for some clergymen, by request of the Archbishop D. Manuel Baptista da Cunha. Urged to write a shopping list, the prelate of Braga found the amount of potatoes scarce and said: “Think it through. A few days ago, my cook bought a much larger portion of potatoes for a dinner with fewer guests. Make sure we do not look bad”. The Abbot laughed and said: “Your Grace, with that amount of potatoes, I could feed my pig for half a year.” The refinement of his cuisine did not rest on the quantity or quality of products, but rather on the way and talent with which they were cooked.
A very frugal cook
It should be noted that the Abbot of Priscos was not an expensive chef, at all. Every service he provided was free of charge, where his sole takeaways were the pleasure of cooking, and even a sense of mission, resulting from undertaking the preparation of such meals. He put in the same dedication, whether it was the King, the Archbishop or a modest family sitting at his table. One of the episodes reported refers to the preparation of a repast for some clergymen, by request of the Archbishop D. Manuel Baptista da Cunha. Urged to write a shopping list, the prelate of Braga found the amount of potatoes scarce and said: “Think it through. A few days ago, my cook bought a much larger portion of potatoes for a dinner with fewer guests. Make sure we do not look bad”. The Abbot laughed and said: “Your Grace, with that amount of potatoes, I could feed my pig for half a year.” The refinement of his cuisine did not rest on the quantity or quality of products, but rather on the way and talent with which they were cooked.
THE PUDDING
The so-called Pudim Abade de Priscos (pudding of the Abbot of Priscos) is unquestionably the most famous gastronomic creation by Father Manuel Joaquim Machado Rebelo.
Regularly served at the best restaurants, but also in Portuguese homes, it is a mandatory presence in any recipe book of national gastronomy. Puddings are an English delicacy and the Portuguese word pudim derives from the English word. This sweet dessert is recognised by its jelly-like consistency, which was made with bread, milk, eggs, raisins and sugar in its original recipe.
We know that in the late 18th century, English-style puddings were already prepared in Portuguese kitchens, progressively being served at the most refined tables. Despite its growing popularity, pudding was only mentioned for the first time in a Portuguese publication in 1832, at a time in which its preparation was already customary amongst noblemen and clergymen.
As its preparation was generalised over the course of the 19th century, a remarkable diversity of ways to cook it emerged. Always up-to-date regarding culinary arts, the Abbot of Priscos early on became acquainted with this English delicacy, as well as with the mastery and uniqueness of the techniques required for its preparation.
The most famous pudding in Portuguese cuisine took the name of the Abbot and became an icon of Braga’s gastronomy. A large amount of eggs, sugar, cinnamon, lemon, Port wine and even fresh bacon are used to make this delicacy. The pudding solidifies precisely with the syrup obtained from the bacon, a rare ingredient in what concerns confectionery. While his pudding became one of the essential icons of national confectionery, the Abbot’s recipe book has many other delicacies, not only sweet recipes, but also consommés with exquisite names, pastries, game, lamprey and codfish dishes, as well as several desserts. His menus were vast and his culinary skills immeasurable.
He created countless recipes for the repasts he organised, some of which remain unknown.
THE PUDDING
The so-called Pudim Abade de Priscos (pudding of the Abbot of Priscos) is unquestionably the most famous gastronomic creation by Father Manuel Joaquim Machado Rebelo.
Regularly served at the best restaurants, but also in Portuguese homes, it is a mandatory presence in any recipe book of national gastronomy. Puddings are an English delicacy and the Portuguese word pudim derives from the English word. This sweet dessert is recognised by its jelly-like consistency, which was made with bread, milk, eggs, raisins and sugar in its original recipe.
We know that in the late 18th century, English-style puddings were already prepared in Portuguese kitchens, progressively being served at the most refined tables. Despite its growing popularity, pudding was only mentioned for the first time in a Portuguese publication in 1832, at a time in which its preparation was already customary amongst noblemen and clergymen.
As its preparation was generalised over the course of the 19th century, a remarkable diversity of ways to cook it emerged. Always up-to-date regarding culinary arts, the Abbot of Priscos early on became acquainted with this English delicacy, as well as with the mastery and uniqueness of the techniques required for its preparation.
The most famous pudding in Portuguese cuisine took the name of the Abbot and became an icon of Braga’s gastronomy. A large amount of eggs, sugar, cinnamon, lemon, Port wine and even fresh bacon are used to make this delicacy. The pudding solidifies precisely with the syrup obtained from the bacon, a rare ingredient in what concerns confectionery. While his pudding became one of the essential icons of national confectionery, the Abbot’s recipe book has many other delicacies, not only sweet recipes, but also consommés with exquisite names, pastries, game, lamprey and codfish dishes, as well as several desserts. His menus were vast and his culinary skills immeasurable.
He created countless recipes for the repasts he organised, some of which remain unknown.
SERVING STRAW TO THE KING
Out of all the feats performed throughout the gastronomical mission of the Abbot of Priscos, a dinner he prepared for King D. Luís I became especially famous as he was bold enough to serve him some straw camouflaged amongst his refined dishes.
This episode, remembered to this day, took place on 3 October 1887, in Póvoa de Varzim, during a dinner prepared for King D. Luís I and the royal family, on the occasion of their visit. Invited to run the kitchen and prepare the banquet, the Abbot of Priscos outdid himself in such a remarkable way that the King wanted to meet him personally. When asked by the King about the ingredients of one of the dishes, the Abbot confessed that it was made of straw. Surprised by the answer, the King questioned his audacity, asking him how he dared to offer straw to his King. And the Abbot replied: “everyone eats straw – the question is knowing how to cook it”. It would be precisely King D. Luís I who would distinguish him as Honorary Chaplain of the Royal House.
Straw was an ingredient that the Abbot sometimes used, in a proper way, to thicken his sauces. After being ground in a mortar, the bundles of straw would be transformed into a creamy mixture which, once duly strained, could be used to prepare sauces, fillings or purées.
SERVING STRAW TO THE KING
Out of all the feats performed throughout the gastronomical mission of the Abbot of Priscos, a dinner he prepared for King D. Luís I became especially famous as he was bold enough to serve him some straw camouflaged amongst his refined dishes.
This episode, remembered to this day, took place on 3 October 1887, in Póvoa de Varzim, during a dinner prepared for King D. Luís I and the royal family, on the occasion of their visit. Invited to run the kitchen and prepare the banquet, the Abbot of Priscos outdid himself in such a remarkable way that the King wanted to meet him personally. When asked by the King about the ingredients of one of the dishes, the Abbot confessed that it was made of straw. Surprised by the answer, the King questioned his audacity, asking him how he dared to offer straw to his King. And the Abbot replied: “everyone eats straw – the question is knowing how to cook it”. It would be precisely King D. Luís I who would distinguish him as Honorary Chaplain of the Royal House.
Straw was an ingredient that the Abbot sometimes used, in a proper way, to thicken his sauces. After being ground in a mortar, the bundles of straw would be transformed into a creamy mixture which, once duly strained, could be used to prepare sauces, fillings or purées.
THE “INVENTOR” OF THE ABBOT
THE “INVENTOR” OF THE ABBOT
ABBOT MANUEL REBELO
ABBOT MANUEL REBELO
